Exploring Vancouver Island

The rain that started on Saturday evening in Seattle was still with us when we made our way to the dock were the ferry departs for Victoria on Vancouver Island. As the transfer was via hotel shuttle bus the rain didn't hamper us too much but it did rather spoil the potential views as we cruised through the otherwise scenic Puget Sound.

The 2h:45m crossing was smooth and uneventful and at least the rain had stopped by the time we docked in Canada. And what better welcome could you want to Canada than a cheery and chatty immigration official - not many countries have them these days it seems. The lady at the booking counter was then happy to help us hire a car - but being the week of Spring Break it seems we were far from the only ones travelling to Vancouver Island at the moment.

The hire company only had a medium sized car available, not the cheaper small car we had hoped for, but it was only for a couple of days so we were not too worried. Laura set off on the walk to the nearby Tourist Information office while I waited for the free pickup to take me and our luggage to the car hire office, which wasn't that far away. Luckily, by the time I got there a small car had just been returned, so I was able to complete the paper work for that, throw the luggage in and set off on foot to catch up with Laura.

Once we had collected all the necessary information we found a food hall for lunch. As Laura was quite hungry we asked one of the shop assistants if we could pay with $US, to save finding an ATM first. It turned out we could, but at the exorbitant exchange rate of $20 US for $18 Canadian we did end up visiting an ATM before returning to buy anything. We then returned to the car hire office to find we had been upgraded to a medium car for free, because an engine warning light had come on in the small car when one of the staff  moved it.

So in our medium car at a small car price we set forth to drive up the west coast to Port Renfrew. As we were navigating without the benefit of a large scale map of Victoria we ended up taking a scenic route out of town via the Gorge district - which only meant that we were able to appreciate what a pretty city it is.

The pebble shore of French Beach

Having found our way out of Victoria and onto the West Coast  Road we continued through Sooke and along the coast. We stopped at French Beach Provincial Park where a weary yours truly had to take a power nap while Laura went to explore the beach. I was subsequently able to have a quick look at the beach before Laura returned. It is surprising just how much noise waves make when they are breaking onto a beach made up of large pebbles. Not only do the crashing waves sound louder than on a sand beach but the constant rolling of stones adds to the general commotion.

We continued up the coast with Laura deciding we should try and fit in one more walk, that included a suspension bridge, before heading to Port Renfrew. I was advocating abandoning that plan when it started to rain, but Laura was convinced we wouldn't get that wet if we only went as far as the bridge then came back. So off we set on a muddy, slippery path in our non-waterproof shoes to a bridge somewhere up ahead. After about 5 minutes we met some walkers returning, who assured us there was a suspension bridge "10, or maybe 20 minutes" further on. With fingers crossed it was closer to ten, we forged ahead through very pretty forest scenery, crossing a couple of bubbling brooks with the help of stepping stones. And, with fortune on our side, we found the bridge after ten or so minutes and gleefully swung across it a couple of times before heading back in the continuing rain. Our jackets did a commendable job of keeping at least the top half of us dry.

Sunset from our bedroom balcony

Afterwards we drove on to the small town of Port Renfrew, where initially we had some trouble finding anywhere to stay as it seemed to be a little bit out of season. The first place we called into seemed open - there was even signs of others guests in residence - but we could not raise anyone to ask about a room. We subsequently picked up a local, who was walking to the general store in the rain, who suggested asking at the store as the only place he knew was full for the night. The store owner was exceptionally helpful and rang a local place right on the beach and arranged accommodation for us. After checking in to our very nice room with an ocean view, in a big roomy house,  we went to the local inn which was recommended as having good fare - not that there seemed to be a lot of choice at this time of year. However it was indeed good tucker so all was well.

Some of what passes for driftwood in Port Renfrew

The ocean view was every bit as good in the morning light which was a nice relaxing way to start the day. After breakfast we went for a short walk along the beach, which was littered with what must have been nearly a world record amount of driftwood. Some of it was  whole trees, roots and all. Apparently they had had a decent storm hereabouts not too long ago.

After check out we set out on the road inland to Lake Cowichan. We had been warned that it was a bit of an uphill winding road, but it really wasn't that bad. Along the way we stopped for the short walk to see the largest Sitka Spruce tree in Canada, 82 metres tall, which grows next to Harris Creek. Turns out that Vancouver Island is renowned for tall trees.

Continuing on to the picturesque Lake Cowichan we decided it was an appropriate place to stop for lunch before continuing further. We chose a pleasant little eatery recommended by a couple of locals and it was indeed very nice. As for continuing further, Laura had noticed what looked like a gravel road from the north of Lake Cowichan that would take us more or less straight to Port Alberni, instead of going all the way to the east side of the island and around through Duncan and Nanaimo. However when we made it to Youbou we were confronted with a large sign warning us that we were about to leave public roads and venture onto logging trails. This seemed somewhat more challenging than just a gravel road. We doubled back and made some enquiries at a service station where the proprietor warned us that if we ventured up that road he would have to come get us with his tow truck - it was indeed a none too well maintained logging track suitable only for logging trucks and serious 4WD vehicles.

A scene in Cathedral Grove

So onwards to Port Alberni via Duncan and Nanaimo it was. At least it was a good road - dual carriageway between Duncan and Nanaimo - so we made good time. A little before Port Alberni we stopped at Cathedral Grove, a national park that contains giant Douglas Firs. There is a short walk either side of the road that makes it easy to explore these massive stands of trees. The information boards taught us about the ways in which fallen trees provide opportunities for the growth of their replacements - partly by opening up the forest canopy to let in more light and partly by providing the nutrients the young trees need to grow.

Next stop was Port Alberni, which is slightly unusual geographically speaking. It would be about half way between the east and west coast of Vancouver Island, closer to the east coast if anything, and yet it is actually a sea port. It is sited at the end of a 48km long inlet that runs all the way west to the Pacific Ocean. With a bit of forward planning we bought some dinner supplies on the way through, before continuing on to Tofino. This involved some more winding mountain driving, through pretty spectacular scenery, but it wasn't too long and we made it to Tofino in pretty good time.

We were not in a huge rush to get started the next morning even though we hoped to get a few short walks done if the weather held OK. First stop was a craft store, in whose window Laura spotted some coloured glass lizards on display. Inside was something of a treasure trove, and we ended up with a couple of lizards and another piece of metal craft work that appealed to us both.

Along the Lighthouse Walk

After the shopping and some morning tea it was time to get serious about doing some walks. We started out by doing what was billed as a Lighthouse Walk, which started just a few blocks away. Only after we had finished the walk - which only took about an hour and offered some wonderful views of forest and coastline - did we realise that the lighthouse we were supposed to look for was on the other side of the bay. No matter, we enjoyed the walk.

The beach at Schooners Cove

We drove on towards Ucluelet and - after a small diversion - found the starting point for the Schooners Cove Trail. This was another short walk of about 20 minutes each way along a series of boardwalks that took you through the coastal woodlands and down to the beach. Hardly the time of year to be going for a swim but the walk was very nice. There was a treat shortly afterwards as we drove towards Ucluelet, when a brown bear came out of the scrub to the side of the road and seemed to be pondering if it should chance a crossing. The car in front of us stopped right opposite it to look - which is actually illegal, as the toots from the car behind us attested - but meant that we had no choice but to stop and watch it as well. The bear didn't linger even close to long enough for a photo opportunity but we did at least get a very good look at it before it turned tail and headed back from whence it came.

A sea otter chows down

Next it was on to the headland at the end of the road to Ucluelet where we did our third walk of the day. This circuit was also called a Light House walk, though it was also a part of the much longer Pacific Rim Walk that goes all the way back to Tofino and then some. No mistaking the lighthouse on this walk, as the trail takes you right past it. No mistaking the nice views from the frequent lookout points along the circuit either. It is a very picturesque piece of coastline. At one point was saw a sea otter on the rocks eating its latest catch with evident gusto. We opted against including the side trip down to Terrace Beach and back since time was getting on and we had to be back in Victoria tonight.

The rugged coastline around Ucluelet

Back on the road we stopped at a hip little "surfie" style take away for some late lunch before making a beeline for Victoria. The drive was uneventful, and quite fast once we were back on the dual carriageway near Nanaimo. After checking into our hotel - chosen specifically because the bus to the ferry terminal back in Nanaimo left from here at 8:00am in the morning - I had to return the hire car. After doing so I ended up walking the 20 minutes back to the hotel because I didn't have  exact change for the bus - and didn't know which one(s) would get me there anyway.

Next morning the minibus was on time and had us at the ferry terminal in Nanaimo at 10:00am, which was in plenty of time for the 10:30am ferry to Horseshoe Bay, back on the mainland, where Sam and Keira awaited us.